Fade in Sade

It was awesome to visit the real life of Sasak in Lombok. I was there two weeks ago, casted here in Dusun Sade, a village of 150 Sasak houses with approximately 700 inhabitants living their life originally, farming and weaving.

A front view of the main gate. Sade Village can be reached right from the main road, and there’s a parking lot for visitors’ cars. The local guide is ready to greet you on the gate.

Sasak is original ethnic of Lombok. Most of them are muslims, though a few of them are Buddhists. They speak in Sasak language. But most of them speak Indonesian fluently, coz they can communicate with me well if I wanna buy their souvenirs.

Sasaks generally still love marrying their own cousins.

Houses are built adapting to the relief of Lombok which is consisted of hills. There are only three large rooms inside, including living room which is functioned as bedroom at night.

Their limited intercourse makes inter-cousin marriage are common among them. Lotta Sasak couples have babies with handicaps. But some of them assume that it’s not because of inter-cousin marriage, instead it’s coz of their fate.

Usually the rooms of the house are spacious and there are just a few furnitures. Girls sleep in the top room or most inner room to prevent boys kidnap them to bring them away.

Sasaks house are usually simple, but strong. Built from wood blocks which configurate large rooms. The doors are averagely short, as high as an adult’s head. They said they make the door that short to respect for the guest. (Which guest is respected, I don’t know. If the guest is Caucasian, it can hit the head.)

They clean house by bull’s faeces. Sasaks believe that wiping their floor by bull’s faeces can pure their house. *miauw!*

Sasak build lumbung or a rice-barn to store their rice of their farms. The rice-barn is built high, to prevent the rice from sink of flood. The space under the rice-barn is used to keep their bulls.

An house is averagely inhabited by three generations or four. A couple generally has four kids or five. Now I understand why they are so keen to marry their own cousins. 😉

If you’re a Sasak girl who wanna marry a Sasak boy, you must be able to weave. Coz Sasaks rule that a girl must be able to weave before they’re married. Isn’t it difficult? Coz me, until today, only can sew buttons and suture people’s wound. *click my tongue*

By the way, in Sasak house, girl must always sleep in the most inner room. Coz if she sleeps in the living room, she can be kidnapped by a boy for marari (a.k marriage without the permission of her parents). Actually I can get it why a girl doesn’t mind to be casted away. Maybe she’s not allowed to marry legally coz she can’t weave yet. :-p

A huge hall is built as a meeting venue for the whole inhabitants of the village.

Actually getting into the village is uncharged. But there’s someone stands on the front gate for a guest book, and providing a box for angpao (reminds me of wedding party). Inside the village, some houses sell souvenirs such as weaving fabrics, wood carvings, and bead

Sasaks are aware how precious the tourists are for their life. So a few house provides simple shops for souvenirs.

accessories. Price bargaining is acceptable.

If you wanna get here, please consult to your travel agent. But if you drive your own car, you just need to drive from Mataram to Kuta Beach, and in about an hour driving from Mataram you’ll find Sade Village at Rembitan. I spend my time here for 30-45 minutes, and I enjoy sightseeing for an ethnic which is unique enough to tell. 🙂

Some Sasak ladies are still weaving and their ability is inherited by generations. But nowadays it’s not really easy to find young girls able to weave. The fabrics are usually used as table-cloth, sarong, or just shawl.

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19 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. depz
    Sep 22, 2010 @ 21:55:25

    Sade…
    Unique

    Reply

    • Vicky Laurentina
      Sep 22, 2010 @ 21:57:20

      Too short!

      Reply

      • depz
        Sep 29, 2010 @ 13:18:22

        okay…. this’s my real comment

        sade’s a traditional village that i always recommend for tourists to visit
        especially if the tourists love the original culture, and they want to know about sasaknese. coz most of local tourist, they only want to visit beach or famous places or art market to buy some souvenirs.

        the interesting things for me are, how they clean the house and how they manage the room inside.

        *susah euy komen pake boso linggis :P*

        Reply

  2. Buzz Stories
    Sep 23, 2010 @ 23:28:29

    so go there again next time:)

    Reply

  3. eddy fahmi
    Sep 23, 2010 @ 23:41:54

    Interesting article, Ky. I think you should post something for the lonely planet, hehe. Anyway, I want to visit the site someday, would you please be my guide? 😀

    Reply

  4. bangaiptop
    Sep 24, 2010 @ 18:36:02

    Indeed their doors are short enough to make my head got several bumps 🙂 The Sasak’s are lovely people with incredible weaving and savanna tracking skill. Too bad, when I was there (late 2006) some weaver are turn their option into chemical instead of natural color material (e.g. no more yellow weave made from saffron since it’s ‘not bright enough to bought as local tourist says’). Anyway, I’m here not to judge what is the best for them. The tourism has huge impact on Sasak people. It’s just almost completely different after 9 years before last visits. The things that never change is they are lovely, warm-heart and have beautiful smile. Love you Sasak.

    Reply

    • Vicky Laurentina
      Sep 24, 2010 @ 19:35:32

      I bought a yellow songket weaven coz it suit on me. I prefer the colour though I found that most of the Sasak cloth were weaven on dark nuances. Yes, I think that’s what we call acculturation where Sasaks try to adjust their product to meet the market’s preference. 🙂

      I agree that all Sasaks I met were friendly. For an exotic ethnic which hasn’t developed much, they are aware enough to be nice and tourism-minded. 🙂

      Reply

  5. arfi
    Sep 26, 2010 @ 18:07:27

    I want to know more about Sade, it is so interesting and unique.. 😀

    Reply

  6. hadisome
    Sep 26, 2010 @ 18:45:33

    cool..
    love this report. so, now i know the tradition in sasaks marriage 😀

    Reply

  7. nindaaa
    Sep 27, 2010 @ 12:34:36

    wah kapan ya saya bisa kesana….. mbak ganti ya alamatnya sekarang?

    Reply

  8. denbagas
    Sep 27, 2010 @ 16:06:07

    According to your article, i want to Lombok sist.. or Mam.. (while scratching my head). You are great writer. Sure. How to describing about that place, exactly, based on the picture i can imagine how’s good that place…

    Say form Tangerang. I’m waiting for…

    Reply

  9. wardi
    Nov 01, 2010 @ 07:31:14

    sasak i was born here

    Reply

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